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Afropop's ADVENTURE IN MADAGASCAR-Dispatch #3
Madagascar is the most beautiful and varied country
I've ever visited in Africa--the land, the people, the
culture. And that's saying a lot coming from someone
who has traveled in Africa for over 15 years to some
two dozen countries.
It's friday morning of Easter weekend. We are in
Tulear on the southwest coast. We left Tana Sunday
morning and my mind is reeling with all the things
we've seen and done. Madagascar is one big wake up
call to the senses. I feel very alive.
Just the land itself...the vivid yellow-green rice
fields elaborately tucked into terraced hillsides,
past people cutting rice in the paddies and thrashing
it on hillsides, through valleys dominated by massive
granite escarpments, across grasslands that look like
East Africa, hiking into Isalo National Park with its
Southwest looking rock, descending into the dry
country dotted with Boabob trees.
I felt like I was witnessing a different century.
The phrase "Planet Madagascar" rings true.
After an intense Hiragasy group performed in Tana on
Sunday, we drove to Ansirabe. The "music hunting" (as
Hanitra likes to say) planned that evening took us out
into the bush. Our destination: kabosy village. As our
Toyota 4x4 Land Cruisers navigated a deeply rutted
track, the full moon rose over the ridge. No
electricity out here. We arrived to a big cheer from
the village kids and walked through the cornfields to
the place they make the kabosey (also called
"mandolin" elsewhere in the country) Three young guys
played kabosey for us. And granny danced with her
grandaughter as the Afropoppers shined flashlights on
the happy scene.
Back in town four groups were waiting for us at the
local Alliance Francaise. An amazing brass group
called Tongarivo featuring seven clarinets and seven
trumpets and two marching band drums played. It was
so loud! I heard New Orleans. The singer songwriter
Bekoto who has written much of Mahaleo's material also
performed as did a virtuosic roots guitarist by the
name of Jauvin.
The next day, we walked through farmlands near
Ambalavao to visit of kabosy family. The headman was
named Rapapa. He played an ancient looking accordeon,
and his teenage son and young daughters also
performed.
The afternoon's destination was the village of
Antoetra, home of the Zafimaniry people. They do a
special music there called Zafindraony, a women's a
capela singing. We walked for an hour or so down the
dirt road to town. Along the way, farmers waved, and
children ran up to say hello and giggle. Very gentle
people. I like the sound of their laughter. The kids
look healthy here. Bright eyed.
The final leg of the trip, we rejoin our jeeps for a
trip through eucalyptus forests to the village of
Antoetra set on a hill overlooking two valleys.
The Head Woman, Ramaria, bosses the group of 40 or so
women in her choir and they sing this most beautiful
close harmonies. I hear the Malagasy word for Jesus.
Hanitra says they have recently changed their
repertoire to a mostly religous one. This is a very
poor place. The kids here do not look so healthy.
We arrive late to the highland town of Fionarantsoa at
a wonderful little hotel called the Tsara Guest House.
We look at each other--tired but amazed we've seen and
experienced so much in just two days! Hanitra has done
an amazing job organizing so much music in advance for
us. And unplanned musical surprises keep happening
too.
More details to come. I have to dash to our convoy
heading north for two days of R&R at a beach village.
- Sean Barlow
Click to see past dispatches:
First Dispatch and images
Second Dispatch and images
Contributed by: Sean Barlow
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