Our Afropop travelers have arrived in Tanzania, kicking off an unforgettable journey in Dar es Salaam, the country’s bustling cultural and financial hub. With a week full of live music, spontaneous dance floors, and local camaraderie, here are the highlights from our time in Bongo, as the locals affectionately call their city.
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Swahili Rhumba: A Battle of the Bands
Our first night in Dar set the tone with a Swahili rhumba showdown. First stop: Msondo Ngoma, performing at an open-air club on the city’s outskirts. Then, we headed to DDC Mlimani, where another powerhouse ensemble took the stage. Both bands delivered the quintessential Tanzanian rhumba sound—a hypnotic three-guitar interplay, soaring four-part harmonies, and tight rhythm and brass sections that kept the energy soaring.
We were the only visitors at both venues, yet the locals embraced us with open arms, pulling us onto the dance floor in a swirl of rhythm and warmth. A perfect welcome to Dar!
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Modern Taarab: A Bollywood Moment in Dar
Night two brought us to a performance by East African Melody, one of the leading groups in modern taarab. Unlike the 12-piece acoustic taarab ensembles we’ll be experiencing in Zanzibar, modern taarab takes a stripped-down approach—keyboard, drum machine, bass, and a rotating lineup of dynamic vocalists.
The music, a fusion of Swahili, Arabic, and African influences, felt like stepping into a Bollywood musical, as locals drew us into their expressive, dance-like gesticulations. The interplay between melancholy lyrics and dance-floor catharsis made for an unforgettable night.
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Marafiki Night: A Hipster Haven for Live Music
On our third night, we landed at Marafiki Night at Slow Leopard, an intimate club that felt like Dar’s version of a Brooklyn indie venue. Our musical guide, John Kitime, opened the night with a laid-back acoustic set, joined by a charismatic female bassist. A second act took over with a fusion of electric guitar, soulful vocals, and Swahili groove, sending the eclectic crowd of hipsters and international residents into a dancing frenzy.
Singeli Night: The Pulse of Tanzania’s Youth
Then came singeli night—a revelation. This breakneck 300-BPM genre is Tanzania’s dominant youth sound, a hyper-fast fusion of electronic beats and rapid-fire lyrics. We found ourselves in a purely Tanzanian crowd, where singers cycled through the stage, each backed by a DJ spinning blistering beats. Witnessing singeli in its element made it clear why this electrifying sound has captured a generation.
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Sunday Gospel: A Spiritual Sonic Experience
Sunday morning took us to a Pentecostal church service, where the energy was nothing short of electric. Gospel is a dominant force in Tanzania, spanning Anglican, Catholic, Lutheran, and Pentecostal traditions. Here, we witnessed an exhilarating live band backing a choir of six women, delivering soul-shaking harmonies.
Between sets, the congregation delved into a half-hour Bible study, emphasizing the power of personal talents and community contribution. Regardless of belief, the music was moving—an irresistible call to the spirit. At one point, I was invited to introduce our group, a moment of shared warmth and gratitude.
Next Stop: Zanzibar!
Now, we’re setting sail for Zanzibar and the 2025 edition of the Sauti za Busara festival. Stay tuned for more from this musical odyssey!
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